Struans Signature Tempura Cod with Sweet Potato Fries and Minted Peas

Food is far more than mere sustenance; it’s a powerful conduit for memory, emotion, and connection. This deeply personal truth is beautifully encapsulated when discussing “Desert Island Dishes” – the meals that transport us back to cherished moments. For Struan Robertson, his choice of classic fish and chips instantly evoked a flood of childhood nostalgia, a sentiment many of us share.

The Timeless Allure of Fish and Chips

Struan’s selection perfectly highlights how food serves as a time machine. He fondly recalled eating fish and chips with his dad, whether it was a casual meal in front of the TV after a trip to the local chippy, or a memorable holiday experience, sitting on a bench by the sea. These are not just meals; they are indelible fragments of life, imbued with the warmth of companionship and the crisp embrace of salty sea air. Just the mention of “fish and chips” can instantly whisk you away to summer holidays by the coast, the wind on your cheeks, the crunch of sea salt in your hair, and the simple joy of licking greasy, salty fingers while vying for the last mushy pea.

My own childhood echoes Struan’s fond memories. The distinct aroma of malt vinegar still has the power to transport me directly back to a particular fish and chip shop in Devon, where my family spent every summer. We would eagerly motor up the estuary on my dad’s boat, anticipating the delicious feast that awaited us. Of course, typical sibling squabbles, complete with “dead arms” and “Chinese burns,” were often part of the journey. Yet, all was forgotten as we huddled together, watching the magnificent summer sunset, merrily devouring our meal, and sharing laughter and stories.

My Personal Fish & Chips Dilemma (and a Solution!)

Funnily enough, I currently face what I affectionately call a ‘first-world problem’ of culinary temptation. There’s a fish and chip shop tantalisingly located at the very end of my street. (Yes, I’ll pause for dramatic effect). Every single time I step outside, I am assailed by the irresistible, warm, and welcoming scent of malt vinegar and perfectly fried chips. It’s a true siren call, a delicious invitation I know, deep down, I cannot accept.

I understand my own weaknesses too well. One trip to that chippy would undoubtedly lead to two, then three, and before I know it, I’d be on first-name terms with the owners’ children and planning their invites to my next big life event! My solution, for those curious, is simple yet effective: I take a deep, resolute breath before leaving the house, and I staunchly refuse to make eye contact with the chippy until I am safely past, enveloped only by the general, less tempting aroma of car exhausts and city life. Only then am I truly safe from its delicious clutches.

Embracing a Homemade Interpretation: Beyond the Traditional Chippy

Struan’s steadfast order was always a large cod, large chips, and curry sauce, notably vetoing the battered sausage – a personal childhood favourite of mine! Seeing his preference, I suspect he might not entirely approve of today’s recipe, but my reasoning is sound. I realised I couldn’t possibly compete with the unparalleled magic of a perfectly executed, traditional fish and chip shop experience. As Struan wisely put it, fish and chips is a great leveller; whether fancy or humble, as long as the fish is fresh, the batter is proper, and the chips are well-cooked, there’s little to truly distinguish them. It’s the epitome of ingredients-led cooking at its very best.

Instead of attempting to recreate the chippy at home, I decided to share a recipe for the kind of fish and chips I genuinely enjoy making and eating in my own kitchen. My preferred choice for the fish is a light and wonderfully crispy tempura batter, which I find perfectly complements the delicate flavour of cod. For the ‘chips,’ I opt for sweet potato fries. While undeniably different from traditional potato chips, they offer a slightly lighter alternative that’s kinder on the stomach and tastes absolutely fantastic. To complete this delightful ensemble, I include my favourite minted peas – a burst of fresh flavour – and, of course, a creamy, tangy homemade tartare sauce.

This recipe is not intended to be a traditional fish and chips experience, nor should it replace the joy of a true chippy visit. However, it is an utterly delicious and surprisingly easy dish to prepare at home when you crave that comforting fish and chips flavour with a fresh, modern twist. Don’t let the seemingly long list of ingredients deter you; each component is far simpler to prepare than it looks, promising a satisfying and memorable meal.

• 2 fillets of cod, I like cutting them each into two
• vegetable oil for frying
• 2 sweet potatoes
• salt and pepper
• tiny pinch smoked paprika
• 1 tbsp olive oil

For the pea puree:

• 200 g peas
• 1 large tbsp greek yoghurt
• salt and pepper
• few leaves of mint
• squeeze of lemon

For the tartare sauce:

• 4 tablespoons of greek yoghurt
• 1 tablespoon chopped gherkins
• 1 tsp chopped capers
• 1/4 lemon zest
• 1/2 tsp chopped parsley
• salt and pepper

For the tempura:

• 150 g plain flour
• 100 g corn flour
• 10 g baking powder
• approx 1 cup ice cold sparkling water – add a little at a time just until the batter coats your finger. Much like Goldilocks, not too thick, not too runny.

• First things first. Preheat your oven to 200ºC (400ºF / Gas Mark 6).
• Wash and chop your sweet potatoes into your desired wedge or chip shapes. Line a baking tray with baking paper, then spread the sweet potato chips evenly. Drizzle generously with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and add a tiny pinch of smoked paprika for an extra flavour kick if you like. Mix everything together thoroughly to ensure all chips are coated. Roast them in the preheated oven for 35 – 40 minutes, or until they are beautifully golden brown and tender on the inside, crispy on the outside.
• For the vibrant pea puree, simply cook the peas until they are soft and bright green. Once cooked, transfer them to a blender or food processor. Add the Greek yoghurt, a good squeeze of fresh lemon juice, and the fresh mint leaves. Blend until smooth. Season the puree well with salt and pepper to taste, adjusting the seasoning as needed.
• To prepare the creamy tartare sauce, combine the Greek yoghurt, finely chopped gherkins, capers, fresh parsley, and the zest of a quarter lemon in a small bowl. Stir until all ingredients are well mixed. Season generously with salt and pepper, tasting and adjusting until it’s perfectly balanced.
• Now, for the star of the show – the cod. In a deep pan or a Dutch oven, pour enough vegetable oil for frying, ensuring it’s deep enough to partially submerge the cod. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it reaches a hot frying temperature (around 170-180°C / 340-350°F). While the oil is heating, prepare your tempura batter by gently mixing the plain flour, corn flour, and baking powder in a bowl. Gradually add the ice-cold sparkling water, a little at a time, stirring until you achieve a batter consistency that lightly coats your finger – not too thick, not too runny, much like Goldilocks’ preference! Gently coat each piece of cod in the prepared tempura batter, ensuring an even layer. Carefully place the battered cod into the hot oil. Fry for a few minutes on each side until the tempura batter is gorgeously golden and wonderfully crispy, and the fish is cooked through. You may need to fry in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan and lowering the oil temperature.
• Serve all components together immediately. Arrange the crispy tempura cod, golden sweet potato fries, and vibrant minted pea puree on plates. Don’t forget a generous dollop of your homemade tartare sauce and a fresh wedge of lemon for squeezing over the fish. This dish is truly delicious, delivering comfort and flavour, even without the traditional newspaper wrapping! Enjoy this delightful homemade meal.